A scrapbook of ideas is how Jonathan Anderson conceived the women’s and men’s collections for Fall Winter 2025. A scrapbook contains things old and new that are gathered at random to be preserved as memories or to serve as inspiration; mementoes fill the pages. Devising the collection as a scrapbook, Anderson plays on LOEWE codes and tropes such as trompe l’oeil, distorted scales and volumes, all filtered through art and artisanal craft, which led to a collaboration with the Josef & Anni Albers Foundation.
The work of the midcentury pioneers serves as a central inspiration and point of departure, where nested squares or colour blocks from Josef Albers’s Homage to the Square series, metamorphose the familiar forms of the Puzzle, Flamenco clutch, Amazona and other bags. Anni Albers’s pictorial weavings, which celebrated thread as a vehicle for artistic exploration, bring a graphic tactility to coats and signature bags.
Elsewhere the dialogue between womenswear and menswear is organic and seamless, fusing the output into a whole. The eye and the mind are constantly puzzled as soft architectures are drawn on and around the body. Leather is spliced, draped, and elongated, jersey dresses are sculpted into round forms, while familiar wardrobe staples—shirts, knits, and coats—are fused together in blunt hybrids, turning the known into something unsettling.
An exploration of scale, zooming in and out: solid silhouettes that are made of micro elements; a tiny ring that becomes a top; blown-up tricot stitches. Slicing is featured profusely, offering an invitation to look inside the garment and experience fashion as something permeable rather than static.
A Prince of Wales check liquefies into metallic fringes, dresses in beaded organza strands take on the illusion of see-through, hardness gets a sense of softness. Surface treatments add granularity; dense beading migrates from clothing to accessories and Toy mules, while the Ballet Runner 2.0’s familiar pattern is recreated in shearling.
Comments are off this post!